The northernmost point of Sri Lanka is called ‘Point Pedro’, and the southernmost point is ‘Point Dondra’. About 550 km in between. Babar Ali, the Bangladeshi mountaineer who conquered Everest and Lotze peak, started walking on this path. Jumon Niaz accompanied him on the pilgrimage.
Day Seventeen: Ranna-Point Dondra (41.49 km)
On the way down, there is a Buddhist monastery near Wadigala. Today, on Sri Lanka’s weekend, everyone is running towards Bihar wearing white clothes with flower branches in their hands. All the trees around have become flowerless. I came across a pool of wobbly water on a lotus leaf. Small uphill’s and downhills on the road. Of course, it can be passed without any trouble. On one side of the road, there is a huge canopy of trees. There was a lot of shade for a while. Some distance ahead, an idol of Lord Tathagata standing on a lotus leaf was found. As calm as Buddha, Mouni are the inhabitants of this island nation. I do not think, how they have had a civil war for 26 years! Arms against another person who grew up in the same water-soil-air of the country! War means violence, war means violation of rules. This war has lifted the dead body of Joan’s son on the shoulder of the old father. The next town is Nettlepetia. Walking slowly towards our final target point Dondra. Sri Lanka’s southernmost point is no longer an elusive destination.
The distance to the destination is decreasing with every step we take on the black pitch of the road. Of course, along with the joy of reaching the goal, there is also a feeling of frustration. No destination is unfamiliar from yesterday. You will also be deprived of the joy of seeing the sunrise or sunset in a new place. The story of dust and mud of this incredibly beautiful island state will not wait from tomorrow. After the north coast of Sri Lanka, I came back to the south coast and saw the tangled vines of the Mexican creeper. Some distance ahead is Marakollia. Breakfast break a little further from here. Breakfast with Idiappam is pouring down rain. Food is often a feast for the eyes. Much later comes the taste. This Idiyappam has gone downhill from there. By the time breakfast is over, the last drop of rain has disappeared from the sky. At Tangalle, Karthik and Buddha are worshiped simultaneously on the roadside. Tangalle is a big city. Hanuman with burnt face can easily be seen on the branches of various trees in the city. At the end of the city I saw the sea after 17 long days. Indian Ocean white water is foaming at the head and plundering the shore corals. The beach here is ‘U’ shaped. The rest of today’s route is along the sea coast. From Guambokka, small hills approach the sea. Unakurua saw the diving center. Jumon Bhai and I are both certified divers. One is a PADI, the other a DIWA certified diver. After the diving center began the reign of the surfing center. I learned the sport of surfing while in Cox’s Bazar. Not completely bugged out on weekend vacations due to being busy with other activities. Moraketiwara beyond Nakulugamuwa. The next route is by Mawalla Lagoon. The gap between the two lanes overlooks the lagoon for the booming resorts and restaurants. A little further I entered Matara district. As a child I heard the name ‘Matara’ for the sake of Sanat Jayasuriya. Jayasuriya is one of the pioneers in changing the landscape of ODI cricket. People called it ‘Matara Hurricane’ because of its explosive batting. Very beautiful graffiti is done on every wall of this street. It can be seen that caste artists have fallen on the wall. A red colored letter box is still seen in every house in Sri Lanka. In this country, however, the trend of yellow envelope letters did not rise at all. We have been kicked out of the country!
The urban feel is gone from Mahawela. Walking along the road to see basil bushes. Today I am traveling along the A-2 highway. As I was walking I said to Jumon Bhai, ‘You being a student of Botany could not identify a new plant to me in the whole journey. Where do I put this sorrow!’ Jumon Bhai’s reply without a moment’s hesitation, ‘Do you know Mahogany and Akalnanda?’ Good thing, I have known these two trees to Jumon Bhai. But then Jumon Bhai’s corrupt pronunciation made mahogany ‘Mahogany’ and Alkananda became ‘Akalnanda’! A juice break at a place near Dickwella. I haven’t had such good orange juice in a long time. Two very beautiful English ‘U’ shaped beaches here side by side. In addition to English, many signboards are being noticed in Russian. Lots of white-skinned tourists here. Renting scooters and moving around. And even though we are foreigners here, people think we are Sri Lankans because of our complexion. The beach is also moving along with us. Coconut grove next to the beach here. The sound of the wind on their broad heads. After a break for drinking juice, I stopped at one place again in the rain without going a kilometer further. Kottagora is beyond a growing town named Godauda. At Talalla, there is that ‘U’-shaped curved and eye-catching beach. All the more charming for the huge coral rocks on the shore. A thicket of keagach in the gaps between the parsley trees. Here is the rain barrier again. The rain came in torrents. Even after taking shelter under a canopy, the rain did not stop immediately. This time I went out with the rain on my head. I took a small road. A little high-low on that road had to get wet for a while due to the sudden rain water coming from above. Very delicate condition with heavy rain on the head and stomach hunger. Got a hotel at Gandara intersection and sat down to have lunch around 4:30 in the afternoon. Point Dondra is four and a half kilometers from here. The intensity of the rain increased further. I am walking in the meantime. From Devinuara Clock Tower take left. The signboard says that Dondra Lighthouse is one kilometer away. The word ‘Devinuara’ is a synonym of Dondra in the Sinhala language. When translated, it means ‘City of God’. Entering the city of God, I asked Jumon Bhai, “If today’s hotel is far from Point Dondra, what will you do?” Jumon Bhai’s quick reply, “Call an ambulance for me!” The water accumulated on the road flooded the Indian Ocean. The lighthouse gate will close shortly after. After hearing that I had walked from Point Pedro, the caretaker gentleman took the picture himself, ignoring the rain. Dondra Lighthouse is the tallest lighthouse in Sri Lanka. This 160 feet tall lighthouse was built in 1890. At its foot is the signboard and letter box of Sri Lanka’s southernmost point. Right next to it is the milky turbulent waters of the Indian Ocean. Jumon bhai and I greeted each other with hugs. After 17 days of walking, it’s time to hang up the shoes. One thing is certain, even if I leave this island nation, the island nation will never leave me!
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